Interview with Dilip Kapur, Founder – Hidesign

Self driven and passionate, we have Dilip Kapur – Founder of Hidesign who understands that every brand needs hold onto its uniqueness to offer value to its customers.
With a Ph.D. in international affairs, he discovered his love for leather bags and design when he had a job with a leather company in Denver, Colorado.

Get a look at what he has to say about his journey and how he provides an insight to all queries that pop up in the headspace of our budding designers!

Could you tell us a bit about your background? When did you realize that you had an affinity for designing bags?

I have no background in design, leather or fashion. With a Ph.D. in international affairs, I discovered my love for leather bags and design when I had a job with a leather company in Denver, Colorado. Fell in love with leather and the act of putting together a bag. It’s pretty exciting to imagine in your mind something and then to see it come alive as you step by step put it together. And leather as a material has so much character, it’s very three dimensional compared to synthetics.

What kind of leather does Hidesign work with?

I have always felt a responsibility not to make the world and our environment worse by using polluting technology to make our leather. Chrome tanning is very polluting (and bad for our health); heavy use of chemicals for finishing is almost as bad. So we maximise the use of vegetable tanned leathers; even if I have to use chrome tanned wet blue (first stage of tanning) we strip it of chrome and then retain it with vegetable tanning. Try it and try our indigenous Indian East India tanning, it is still one of the best tannings and India was always the leader in this.

Does Hidesign explore other materials as well? If not, are you planning to do so in the future?

I have not been as successful in using vegetable finishes as they are very unstable, but we continue to work on it with Jesus ( yes, really that’s his name ) of Colours of Nature on making Hidesign the first company to successfully master vegetable dyeing. You should also experiment, and I suggest start with Indigo. We will launch hopefully a collection called Zen soon with indigo dyeing with Jesus.

What makes Hidesign different from other designer bag brands?

Every brand has to be different if it aspires to be of value to its customers.

1. We don’t copy other brands, do not follow the typical policy of Chinese and Indian companies of taking the best sellers of luxury brands and then copy them. Learn from them, yes; know the trends, yes. But then we find our own Stories and styles and materials.

2. We always keep our mantra: sustainable, natural, innovative, handcrafted. We are not perfect, but these are our guiding values. What are your core values: stick to them!

How do you keep yourself updated with the latest design trends?

Look around to get inspired by everything, not just bags. That’s why our stories are so varied : something we see in travel (Eg: my Masaai collection) ; something we believe in : My Rockstar idols ; East India tanning ; Witchy women! Of course we also travel and see what the world does, Google a lot, but avoid being too influenced by “trend stories” from WGSN as it kills my creativity, and talk to designers from other fields. The best creativity comes from life around you and not from following what other bag companies do.

What kind of challenges (ergonomically) do you face in the bag design industry?

I think experience is the best teacher! Knowing what type of leather would stand which shape, and always building the inside of the bag as carefully as the outside (don’t use cardboard, only leather board, which glue (the lighter the better), what helps to keep shape but doesn’t make stiff etc.

What gains majority in your design, customer’s want or a new approach to the bad design?

Always the excitement of sharing something we care about, are excited about, with the community of our customers. Treat your customers as your community; share something exciting with them through your design.

Can you brief us a little about your design process?

Start with an exciting idea: such as Maasai lifestyle, Zen philosophy, Witches as feminists etc.

• Research it : what are the key aspects of this idea
• How does it connect to Hidesign values?
• What would it look like visually?
• Develop raw materials for these: we make ourselves our own buckles, linings, work with our tannery on new leathers, surfaces, colours.
• Draw out first bag shapes: one in each small range) normally 5 ranges of 3-5 each makes a collection). Listen to marketing team in their read of customer’s needs.
• Each bag goes through at least four trials. Each one is shared with others in office and digitally with others for reactions
• Finalise the collection.
• Work on all communication: hangers, tags, store’s Point Of Sales.
• Create a docket to share with marketing , sales, production and VM teams.

What is your opinion about the market for designer bags in India?

There are three types :
1. Originals: mostly international and some people like you and us, but very few!
2. Copiers: like most Indian and Chinese bags. Too bad if u get stuck with them as your role is only to find the best bags and copy
3. Merchandising In export companies: sampling for manufacturing based on specs and drawings from other brands
You can imagine what I encourage you to do!

Any advice you want give to young designers just starting out?

None! Follow your inner guide. And share with us all and your future customers’ community so that we can learn, applaud and maybe be a good sounding wall.

Let’s share!